The links on the right give access to a series of eight leaflets describing walks around Shefford. They were produced by Shefford P3 group with assistance from Shefford Town Council, Central Bedfordshire Council and the Charity of Robert Lucas.
The cover drawings (available on the printed version only) are by talented local artist, Stuart Hodgson, and were designed by Out of the Bleu, Bedfordshire. © Shefford Town Council 2006.
The leaflets are available free from Shefford Library.
Unfortunately we are not able to send them in the post but they can also be downloaded (see adjacent list).
Please view the SUMMARY sheet, which gives recent updates on some important information
Shefford – Historical Walks
Introduction
Shefford is a lively and interesting small market town. It owes its name and its foundation to the five roads which meet in the town and the fact that at this point it was possible to ford the rivers Hit and Flit. Although the low lying land must have been a swamp at that time, the higher ground was used for sheep rearing and those flocks using the roads gave it the name of Sheepford or Shefford .
Its ancient wealth is reflected in the two princely iron age burials accidentally found near Stanford Bury Farm and the Roman cemetery which lay close to the Robert Bloomfield Middle School.
Shefford is not to be found in the Domesday Book – but the ‘Cudsands in the manor of Campton’ seems a likely candidate. In 1220 there is the first recording of the name ‘Serford’ as part of the manor of Campton and Shefford-cum-Camptont remained until the mid 19th century.
In 1225, Shefford was granted a Charter to hold a market and this must have flourished since in later times Bedford was to complain bitterly of the competition to its own markets. By 1312 the king had granted a Royal Charter to Shefford to hold a fair on Michaelmas Day. Although at least two more fairs were established at later dates the Michaelmas Fair held on the 11th of October every year in the High Street is the only one to survive.
The five roads still meet in Shefford and have strongly influenced its buildings – many of them originating as coaching inns and other uses which served the passing trade. When the canal was built in 1822 and the railway arrived in 1857 even more trade came with them and the population of the town increased steadily.
By the turn of the century it had reached a size which made its designation as part of the parish and manor of Campton a nonsense – the ugly duckling had outgrown its mother – and Shefford became a parish in its own right.
Before local government was established to take responsibility for the provision of lighting, drainage and the carriageway, Shefford was fortunate in the benefaction of an Tudor Sheffordian named Robert Lucas who bequeathed his property to the benefit of all the people of Shefford. In 1560 the Robert Lucas Trust was set up to establish and maintain bridges, highways and causeways in Shefford. In 1750 the Trust did build two new bridges over the Hit and the Flit and the highway between them. We can still see South Bridge Street and North Bridge Street today.
In 1900 it was described by H.Groves in The Way About Bedfordshire as ‘ A bright and clean little market town, as well it ought to be, for in the reign of Elizabeth, Robert Lucas left moneys for the paving , cleansing and lighting of its streets.’
In 1820 the trust also arranged for the pond to be filled in and a reservoir to supply water to a pump installed. Alas, the original pump was a victim of the rush in the 20th century to accommodate the motorcar. It is today commemorated in a replica pump immediately opposite the White Hart Public House.
And at the Pump we shall start our walk.
High Street
Before leaving the Pump it is worth looking at the small plaque towards the top which commemorates Peter Harwood whose Story of Shefford has supplied much useful information for our walk.
At the traffic lights turn immediately right along the High Street. The shop on the corner which was recently an antique shop was previously Moss’s grocery shop. In the 19th century part of it seems to have been a ladies outfitters and if you move to Duck Lane and look up to your right you will see unusual triangular windows on the first floor which were probably used to display the latest models.
Look across the street and the church of St Michael and All Angels is a striking landmark. Built largely of the local sandstone the top of the tower has been repaired at some time by using bricks. The fact that the Fair Charter designates Michaelmas for the fair means that even in the 14th century Shefford must have had a small chapel dedicated to St Michael on the site, which was known as a chapel- of -ease, since the parish church in Campton was not always easy to reach. The oldest part of the church is the tower which was probably part of the original chapel. It is worth examining the different episodes of building which can be seen in the stones of the tower. Note that there is no graveyard since Shefford buried its dead in Campton churchyard.
Moving further onwards, but remaining on the right hand side of the street, is the interesting medieval house now known as the Tudor House.
Almost next door is The Maltings whose present name derives from the oast house which is at the far end of the site. This produced malt and originally was connected to the house by other outbuildings – which would suggest that it was an inn and originally brewed its own beer. A better view of the oast house will be available further on.
Across the way the Catholic Church of St Francis, notable for its 30ft high reredos, was built in 1884. The sacristy was originally the chapel of St George –
the first post-Reformation Catholic chapel to be built in Bedfordshire. A small statue of St George may still be seen. The building on the left of the Church was for many years St Francis’ Orphanage but has since been converted into flats.
The Bridge pub, on the right, commemorates the railway bridge – or more correctly viaduct – which carried the railway across the High Street at this point. Until the demolition of the viaduct and station it was known as the Railway Inn.
Immediately past the Bridge are three modern houses which are built on the site of the flight of stairs which had to be climbed to reach the station perched on top of the embankment. The station was built to serve the railway, originally the Midland Railway, which opened in 1857 and ran from Derby to Hitchin, and after 1858 to Kings Cross Station in London. From Hitchin to London it had to share track with the Great Northern Railway which soon led to friction and in 1868 a new track was constructed from Bedford to St Pancras Station. What had been the main line became overnight a quiet, country branch line serving local stations between Bedford and Hitchin. Until it was finally closed in 1964.
Turn right again into Old Station Way and follow it round noting on the way a view of the oast house – now converted into a dwelling. Pass the Town Car Park and turn left continuing until the end of the road is reached. A well trodden footpath leads through a small play area until it reaches the river where a sharp turn to the right leads to the North Bridge over the River Flitt.
North Bridge Street
At the bridge, cross to the other side of the road. The blocks of flats called The Wharf stand indeed on the site of the terminus of the Ivel Navigation and the name is all that remains of the old wharf where coal and other cargoes were unloaded from the barges.
‘Shefford stands on the banks of the River Ivel which is navigable for coals, corn, timber and other merchandise from Lynn.’
A glance over the bridge at the brick wall which lines the river bank at this spot will show you where the barges used to tie up. Although it is possible to follow the old tow path from this point, instead turn back along North Bridge Street towards the town centre – our route will rejoin it later.
The pub now called the Brewery Tap was originally the Green Man and almost opposite is the house of its most famous customer and Shefford’s most famous resident – Robert Bloomfield. Born in 1766 to a poor family in the village of Honnington in Suffolk, Robert was, after a short spell as a farmer’s boy, apprenticed as a shoemaker in London where he discovered a love of poetry and a natural ability to write verse.
After his marriage he wrote The Farmer’s Boy which was published in 1800 and sold a sensational 23,000 copies. Unfortunately he had no head for finance and in 1812 found himself in financial difficulties again. A friend offered to rent him the cottage which now bears a plaque in his memory and there he lived until 1823 when, worn out by his misfortunes, he died. His grave is to be seen in Campton Churchyard near the north east corner of the church.
Across the road the Old Fire Station, used to be the Town Meeting Room and Town Council Chamber, commemorates Queen Victoria’s Jubilee. The original fire engine was fired by steam and had to be kept stoked continuously. It was pulled by heavy horses which were stabled nearby. It must have been an exciting sight as it galloped to the rescue with the firemen in their shining brass helmets hanging on to the sides.
The present Barclays’ Bank occupies a delightful 16th century timber framed building which was an inn known as The Cock. The intricate brickwork would suggest that it was first built as a dwelling by someone wealthy.
Immediately beside the traffic lights stands the White Hart – an important coaching inn when Shefford was on the main Bedford to London Coach route. Although the present front is 18th century behind the brick and under the rendering is a fine timber framed building. Inside you will find many photographs of old Shefford.
South Bridge Street
At this point North Bridge Street becomes South Bridge Street as you walk on past the Post Office towards the South Bridge. As soon as you have crossed the bridge turn immediately left onto the footpath which leads down along the River Hit.
A branch of the canal came as far as this – carrying hides for the tannery which stood on the north bank.
Passing through the kissing gate and along the path to where the two rivers meet you will see on your left a footbridge. This was originally a swing bridge to allow access for the barges.
The houses on the right, have recently been built on the site of what once was a roller skating rink and swimming pool. Apparently the floor for skating was laid over the empty pool. During the 2nd World War it was commandeered by the troops and at the end of the war it remained derelict for some time before being converted to a factory.
As you continue along the tow path on your left you will see Shefford Mill.
Originally a water mill until periodic flooding undercut the bank, it collapsed in 1959. The stump of the old windmill can be seen beside it. The windmill was built to supplement the water mill but it never seems to have been very successful – probably due to its low lying position – and it ceased work in the 1880s and became derelict. It is now used as a store.
Millennium Green
On your right is a new footbridge which crosses a small brook. Cross the bridge and follow the footpath to the left and diagonally across the Green until you reach the car park at the other end. The Green has been very much a community project and all the work of planting and construction has been done by volunteers.
When you have reached the car park which serves both Bellcote Meadow and the Millennium Green turn left up Purcell Way until you arrive at Clifton Road.
Clifton Road
If you take a few steps to your left along Clifton Road you will see on the other side of the road The Old School, still with its bellcote. This must be the ‘old School Hall in Clifton Road with the little cottage nearby’ which first gave shelter to a contingent of Jewish refugee children during the last war.
Now turn right and follow Clifton Road as far as the Woolpack. Turn right again towards the town centre and continue until you are opposite Ivel Road.
If you look up Ivel Road the legend ‘Shefford Brewery’ can still be seen on the side of the one story-brick building there. Although this brewery has long since ceased to trade Shefford has still got its own brewery – Banks and Taylor – though it is now to be found on the modern industrial estate at Old Bridge Way. If you should wish to try their excellent products then the Brewery Tap is the pub for you!
From your present position a short walk will return you to the White Hart and the start of your walk. On your way spare a glance for the Post Office across the road. Up the entry to its left is the site of the last blacksmith’s forge in Shefford. On your right is the Town Sign on which you will see represented Shefford’s railway, canal and, of course, the shepherd taking his sheep across the ford!
Stepping Out
Shefford has many delightful walks in the surrounding countryside. The Town Council’s P3 Group has prepared a set of leaflets for eight walks and these are available from the library.
One of the pleasantest takes you along High Street, left down New Street and then follows the footpath along beside the River Hit to Campton. In Campton take time to explore the church where Robert Bloomfield was buried.
The church was in the gift of the monks from Chicksands Priory and then, after the Reformation, the Osborne family. The Priory is now a military base but is open to the public on one Sunday in the month – though visits need to be booked through the Friends of Chicksands Priory.